Guide
Double-Brick WiFi Dead Zones: A Homeowner's Guide
Why WiFi signal drops in older double-brick Eastern Suburbs homes, mesh versus access points, when cabling helps, placement mistakes and when to call an installer.
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Why does WiFi signal drop in double-brick homes?
WiFi is a radio signal, and radio signals are absorbed and reflected by solid materials. Double-brick walls — two layers of brick with a cavity between — are one of the worst materials for WiFi to pass through. Each brick layer absorbs part of the signal, and the cavity can cause interference patterns.
In Sydney's Eastern Suburbs, many homes in Maroubra, Randwick, Bondi, Coogee and surrounding suburbs were built with double-brick construction. A single router placed in the front room might cover two or three rooms, but the signal drops off sharply once it has to pass through an external or internal brick wall.
The problem is worse when:
- The router is at one end of the house rather than centrally located
- The home has multiple levels — signal struggles to pass through ceilings and floors
- There are additional walls between the router and the dead zone (kitchen, bathroom, wardrobe walls)
- Metal objects — fridges, mirrors, foil-backed insulation — are between the router and the dead zone
- Neighbouring networks are using the same WiFi channels, causing interference
Mesh WiFi versus wired access points
These are the two main solutions for extending WiFi in a double-brick home. They work differently and suit different situations.
Mesh WiFi
A mesh system uses multiple nodes placed around the home. The nodes communicate with each other wirelessly, creating a single WiFi network that devices move between seamlessly. Several brands offer mesh systems suited to different budgets and home sizes.
Pros: Easier to install, no cabling required, single network name, good for most homes.
Cons: In double-brick, the wireless link between nodes is also weakened by walls. The further a node is from the main router, the slower its connection. You may need more nodes than you expect.
Wired access points
Access points are connected back to the router using structured network cabling. Each access point broadcasts WiFi, but the connection between the access point and the router is wired — so there is no signal loss through walls.
Pros: Full speed at each access point, no wireless backhaul bottleneck, most reliable option for double-brick homes, best for streaming and cameras.
Cons: Requires cabling, which means wall penetrations or surface trunking. More work to install, especially in existing homes.
Which should you choose?
In a smaller double-brick home or unit, mesh WiFi may be enough. In a larger home, or one with multiple levels, wired access points give the most reliable result. A hybrid approach also works — mesh in easier areas, one wired access point for the difficult end of the house.
AVsion can assess your home and recommend the right approach based on your layout, internet speed and how you use the network. See the WiFi & NBN installation page for more.
When does data cabling help?
Data cabling is the most reliable way to connect devices that need consistent speed. It helps when:
- You stream 4K video to a TV in a room the WiFi struggles to reach
- You work from home and need a stable connection for video calls
- You have security cameras that need reliable network access
- You want to connect an access point in a dead zone
- You are building or renovating and can run cabling before walls are closed
Structured network cabling supports high speeds over distances suitable for any home application. Cabling is terminated at wall plates for a clean finish.
Common WiFi placement mistakes
- Router on the floor or behind furniture. WiFi radiates outward and downward from the antenna. Placing the router low or behind a cabinet blocks the signal. Aim for a central, elevated position.
- Router in a corner room. If the router is at one end of the house, half its signal goes outside. Place it as centrally as possible.
- Next to metal or appliances. Fridges, microwaves, metal cabinets and foil-backed insulation all block or interfere with WiFi. Keep the router away from these.
- Extender placed too far from the router. A WiFi extender repeats the signal it receives. If it is in a dead zone itself, it repeats a weak signal. Place extenders where signal is still reasonable.
- Too many devices on one band. Most modern routers have 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. 2.4GHz reaches further but is slower and more crowded. 5GHz is faster but shorter range. Smart home devices on 2.4GHz can crowd the band and slow everything down.
When to call an installer
If you have tried repositioning your router and still have dead zones, it is time to call a professional. An installer can:
- Test signal strength throughout your home to map dead zones
- Recommend mesh, access points or cabling based on your specific building
- Run cabling neatly through double-brick walls or ceiling space
- Configure the network for optimal performance and device separation
- Ensure the network supports streaming, cameras and smart home devices together
AVsion is based in Maroubra and has been solving WiFi problems in Eastern Suburbs double-brick homes for 14 years. Call 0411 158 171 or visit the AVsion enquiry page to arrange a consultation.
Frequently asked questions
Why does WiFi not work in my back room?
Is a WiFi extender the same as mesh WiFi?
Will a new router fix my dead zones?
Can I run data cabling myself?
When should I call an installer?
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